Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Phylloxera March

The Great French Wine Blight.
A History Lesson.

When looking at the current problems facing our industry one can look to the past for a lesson. We need to sell more wine, made with less water, at higher prices to ensure South Australia continues to be the flagship of the wine industry. However a push for tourism could lead to an economic crash that will change our regions forever.

Phylloxera was thought to have arrived into Europe sometime around 1858, or 1860. It was introduced from North America. It can hardly be seen with the naked eye. There had been trade in grape stock between the two continents for over two hundred years previous, but no one had notice the grape aphid.

It is possible Phylloxera only became a problem in France after the invention of steamships. This new technology allowed a fast journey across the Atlantic ocean, allowing the Phylloxera to survive the trip. An increase in fast travel and between the continents made its introduction inevitable.

The French initially did not know what Phylloxera was doing to there vines, they just saw the effect, a sudden vine death which they likened to consumption. In 1863 the first cases had turned up in the old region of Languedoc.

They called it wine blight. This wine blight caused the entire course of French industry to change and is estimated to have cost double the repatriations the French had to supply Prussia after their losing war of 1870.

For many this might seem like an ancient history lesson, irrelevant with the pressures of a recession and environmental concerns like droughts and fires, but the parallels between the past and present seem obvious to me.

South Australia now faces the imminent arrive of the blight. With the an increase in travel and tourism between our wine regions being encouraged, the chances of Phylloxera continuing to break out of its containment in Victoria increases directly with every air flight or road trip between the two states.

An introduction of the aphid would cause a modern upset that would could rival the original for economic catastrophe. The original outbreak saw 40% of French vineyards devastated over a 15 year period, from the late 1850s to the mid 1870s. The French economy was badly hit by the blight; many businesses were lost, and wages in the wine industry were cut to less than half.

Waves of immigrants moved to California and Algiers to start anew.

The rapid spread of the disease was in an era where the only fast travel between wine regions was by train, or river barge. It is notable that the spread of Phylloxera initially followed the main river valley of the Rhone from Languedoc to the centre of France.

Ironically in Tuscany the railways were blamed, because they laid long tracks of iron into the soil, this was felt unnatural and several miles of track were torn up in fear.

After a start in the Rhone Valley, the disease spread across the French Alps and across the Pyrenees. Bordeaux was also breached and by 1884 over a million hectares of French vineyards were dead or dying. As the plague spread, church bells were rung in alarm, anti-pest syndicates were formed, and a burn-or-perish approach was regretfully adopted.

It was not until 1868 that the French biologist Jules- Emile Planchon and two colleagues, chanced upon a group of Phylloxera sucking from the roots of a plant that a theory on the blight's cause by the Phylloxera was formed.

Once the cause of the problem was discovered, there was no apparent solution. A large cash prize was offered for a cure and many off-the-wall ideas were tested, but the prize was never awarded.

Removing and burning infested vines was only marginally effective in slowing the spread.

The only option to keep the wine industry going was suggested by two french wine growers, Leo Laliman and Gaston Bazille, who both felt if European vines could be combined, by means of grafting, with the phylloxera-resistant American vines, then the problem might be solved.

The process was colloquially termed "reconstitution" by French wine growers.

If Phylloxera came to McLaren Vale today, this remains the only solution. Our vineyards would have to be pulled up and replanted as grafted vines.

A more recent lesson in the destructive abilities of Phylloxera is occurring now. Attempts in the 1960s by the viticulturists of the University of California to replace older rootstocks with the ominously named AxR1 rootstock. AxR1 performed wonderfully for a while, but a new strain of Phylloxera overcame its resistance. California experienced its own rapid outbreak, only now satellite and DNA technology was available to track the spread of infection, and Californian vineyards are now in the process of replanting at an estimated cost of between half a billion and a billion dollars.

While we do have the advantage, in modern times, in that we now know what causes the death of vines and how Phylloxera can be detected. How much of this knowledge is known by those who we are encouraging to travel in our wine districts? Does the staff on your friendly budget airline warn you of the dangers of traveling from the Yarra Valley to Adelaide? Fruitfly; yes... Phylloxera; no.

Unless a widespread campaign is conducted we could face are own blight. It would be accidental, it might take a few years to be noticed, we might have spectral image overflights to track it progress, but we would stand little better chance of stopping a huge economic upheaval to an already stressed industry.

An increasing in wine tourism could save our wine regions from the tough economic times it now faces. However, like the steamships of old, tourism could also bring with it a pest that can't be shaken.

1 comments:

Philip White said...

Yes to everything. I wonder what phylloxera protocols were observed in the Yarra Valley bushfires. Trucks with wet tyres, no time to read the signage, wedding guests out in the vineyards with muddy shoes from the water they were throwing about etc. Did we send firetrucks from SA to the Yarra? Or any of Victoria's phylloxera zones?